Scup with Coconut and Poblano Sauce and Grilled Cucumbers
courtesy of chef Andrew McQuesten, north
“Scup (porgy, sea bream, or whatever you want to call it) is a fish that is dear to me. It’s something I remember using as bait as a kid fishing with my father and uncle and as a professional chef I’ve cooked scup in a litany of ways. The main thing that impresses me with such a “lowly” fish is its versatility. Between raw applications, whole roasted, grilled, or taking filets like in this recipe and roasting them in a pan with butter, scup can hold up to most flavors and not be overpowered but also not be “fishy” (as is the common misconception). Scup will forever hold a place in my heart and because of that I am happy to share the way that we prepare it at north. Feel free to give it a try at home and also don’t be afraid to try this as a whole or raw preparation. The accompanying sauce will pair well with any version of scup, and also with a tart white wine or a bold tequila cocktail.”
RECIPE
Drink pairing: Pair with a tart white wine (think pinot grigio) or a bold tequila cocktail.
Ingredients
2 larger scup, can be prepared filleted as per the instructions (or ask your fishmonger to fillet it), raw, or whole
1 can coconut cream
½ can coconut milk
1 tsp salt
Generous pinch of black pepper (15 turns if using a pepper grinder)
4 tsp sugar
3 poblano peppers
1 English cucumber or 3 small cucumbers
2 tbsp pickle brine
2 tbsp lime juice
Instructions for the fish
Filet the scup (or ask your fishmonger). Filleting scup is much like any other round fish (see our guide to filleting round fish). Start by making a cut just behind the head and going down past the gills and out through the belly. Continue by making an incision at the dorsal fin toward the head and with gentle downward pressure and using the length of your knife, slice until you reach the spine. Turn fish and slice from the tail up to the spine in the same way on the bottom of the fish. Use kitchen shears to cut through the ribs. Where the ribs meet the spine is where most of the pin bones are. Cut ribs out with a knife going toward the belly and then use tweezers to pull out the pin bones.
At this point the filet is ready to cook. Salt both flesh and skin of your filets and place skin side down on a hot grill. If using gas, once you get a good sear on the fish, turn the heat down and cook until flesh is firm. Be sure to spray your grill with nonstick to ensure you get to enjoy the skin.
Note: This dish may also be prepared with raw scup or whole roasted scup. Raw preparation: If you would like to try eating scup raw, have the skin removed and cut into any size pieces you want. Thinly sliced would be best for a chilled version of the coconut poblano sauce. Be sure to follow USDA guidelines for preparing raw fish — for example, freezing to kill parasites. Whole preparation: Have your fishmonger scale and gut your scup. Score skin with a sharp knife, and salt generously. Place on a well-oiled sheet pan and roast the fish in the oven at 450 for 10-15 minutes.
Instructions for sauce
To make the coconut poblano sauce, first put poblanos on flame and char on all sides.
Place in Tupperware with lid on to steam them. Soak in water to peel off charred skin and remove the seeds. Blend in a food processor for a few pulses until it breaks into small chunks.
Put coconut cream, coconut milk, salt, black pepper, and sugar in pot. Bring to a boil on high heat, then reduce to medium heat. Add poblanos and simmer on medium for 10 minutes. Pull off heat and let cool to room temperature. Mix in pickle juice and lime juice. Adjust as needed with salt and sugar.
Instructions for cucumbers
Halve cucumbers and grill dry, cut side down. Grill until face is charred but cucumber is not cooked all the way through. Cut into bite size portions.
Plating
Spoon coconut poblano sauce in a shallow bowl to cover the bottom. Arrange grilled cucumbers on top. Place scup filet on cucumber pieces.